“Mongolia 🇲🇳 ~Part 1 of 3 of our 14-day Mongolia Wilderness Adventure; Reindeer Tribe”
Part 1 of 3 of Our Mongolia Wilderness Adventure
Ready to go, waiting for pickup at the Ramada Ulaanbaater. We arrived the night before, from Kazakastan.
“It’s Show Time”
Is it Christmas morning, my birthday? None of the above, but I feel just like that little kid, filled with the same anticipation and excitement right now! Our packs are ready for the horses and the 4×4, and we are more than ready to begin this exciting adventure!
Lots of driving, today, to get away from the city and make our way to the Volcanic region, to start. By the time we switch to horseback, and find the Reindeer Tribes, we shall be bordering Russia 🇷🇺. If you enlarged the map, you will see this on day 3. This is the region where we meet up with the horse outfitter, and begin searching for the elusive tribes, which can take days.
We are told (or warned) Mongol horses are small, but sturdy, and strong. In trade for their ability, they are spirited and can offer up attitude (and mine surely did). We will be traveling some tough terrain, so must be aware of not getting brushed off the horses, by low-lying tree branches. We have a pack horse along, to carry our bags, sleeping gear and food.
New trails are made each time, as the reindeer tribes move their camps around.
This was what we were shown, for a general route through Mongolia, where we would be off-roading, 90% of the time.
Days 1-7
Day 1:
*Uran Togoo Volcano and Mountains.
We will drive to the mountain called Uran Togoo, which is an extinct volcano, and an attractive destination of Northern Mongolia, 🇲🇳 which is located about 37 miles from the nearest city of Bulgan. This area is situated in the Khutag-Undur district of Bulgan Province. It is a beautiful place for hiking in the wilderness.
Stayed in: Local family Cabin
Our Driver and Guide
Our driver, named “Minga” was supremely talented at the Mongolian skill of “mongolchlokh,” which means improvising the Mongol way. So, if our vehicle breaks down, we are to have confidence we won’t be stuck out in the middle of nowhere, for very long.
So, when we did break down, we watched our drivers, and other drivers who stopped to help, do what they do best; improvise.
Day 2:
*Khuvsgul Lake
Another highlight of this tour, is to finally reach Khuvsgul Lake, after all day driving. One of the largest lakes of Mongolia, it is known as “The Dark Blue Pearl.” This lake is located in the most northern province (Khuvsgul aimag), where there is also the largest tributary stream of Lake Baikal in Russia.
Khuvsgol is 5,397 feet above sea level and is frozen, from January until April or May. Try to imagine a 1,065 sq miles alpine lake, with water so pure you can drink it, then add dozens of mountains 6,562 feet high or more; thick pine forests and lush meadows with grazing yaks and horses. Here, there is swimming, fishing or horse back riding. This would be seasonal, of course.
Stayed in: Ger
We took a boat ride around this huge lake. It was freezing cold, so 30 minutes was just the right amount of time!
A Yurt, or Ger, is a portable, circular dwelling. Yurts have been the primary style of home in Central Asia, particularly Mongolia, for thousands of years. We found them to provide sufficient warmth and basic bedding needs. It was rare our Gers (pronounced g-airs) would have a bed for two people. So we had to sleep apart. (I know-boo hoo) We also, at times, shared the Ger with the guide.
We enjoyed the friendly dogs who made themselves at home around us, in the warmth of our Ger. At this camp, there was a shower room and toilet. The water was heated by wood stove, and only available at a certain time of day or night. Like the food. Take the showers, when they are available!
Typical Dinner
I never ate so many noodles in my life, as I did in Mongolia. But like any wilderness adventure, it’s best to eat, when food is provided, or go hungry. Some noodles were homemade on the spot. Now those were good!
Breakfast
Something we would learn quickly, is, it was best to sleep in our clothes, because even when we had our own Ger (without the guide) the locals would come in, unannounced in early AM, to build the fire, as well as stock the woodpile, the night, before bedtime. They would also bank the fire, too. Most of the time, these great little stoves would cook us right out of the Ger!
Day 3:
*Tsaatan Uuk Province
All Day Drive, which is the main region, where the Tsaatan Reindeer Tribe live. We will stage our pack trip with horses, from this location
Stayed in: Ger
It would be around this point, where we left the pavement for the off-roading, and would not see pavement again, for a long time.
Yes, those are two hump Camels you see!
The Ovoo is a “magnificent bundle” (i.e. shrine). They are sacred stone or wood heaps used as altars or shrines in the Mongolian practice of their religion. Ovoos are often found at the top of mountains and in high places, like mountain passes. If we did not stop at the Ovoo, as we traveled, our driver, Minga would honk the horn three times, without fail.
Shamans, like Nergui, believe in three fundamental concepts. The first is; that the world is alive, and that plants, animals, rocks, and water have spirits, and must be respected. The second point is;“bujan,” which is not dissimilar to “karma,” in that the actions performed by every living being affects the second life. The third is; balance..maintaining harmony within oneself, within the community, and in the environment.
We saw all kinds of offerings left behind by faithful worshippers
According to traditional Mongolian shamanism, each Ovoo is meant to be symbolic of a deity, so there are Ovoos dedicated to heavenly gods, mountain gods, gods of nature, ancestral spirits, and any otherworldly entity you could think of!
We saw slaughtered animals, incense sticks, and libations all serve as worthy sacrifices when one is worshipping at an Ovoo. If a Mongolian person happens to pass by an Ovoo while traveling, it is customary to stop and circle the Ovoo three times in a clockwise direction, as it is believed this will protect them during their journey. After that, it is customary to pick rocks up from the ground and add them to the pile as an offering.
Anyone who is specifically seeking a blessing from the gods will leave finer gifts in the form of candy, money, milk, or alcohol. When we did stop at the Ovoos, Minga would do the traditional circle walks around the stones or sticks that make up the shrine.
In the last village we would go through, before reaching base camp, we stopped at a little house where we had to get the proper permits in hand to venture so far north on the Russian border. This permit would give us permission to enter into Russia 🇷🇺, in our search for the Reindeer Tribe, as they are a nomadic people.
Not far from the Mongolia-Russia border, is the taiga. The taiga is a delicate ecosystem, characterized by forests of coniferous trees and birch. These alternate with wetlands and marsh swamps, which freeze over in the harsh winter climate.
After we reached our Ger base camp by evening, this was where our itinerary went off the rails. We would end up staying in the base camp Ger, at the foothills of the mountains, longer than we were suppose to, because the the horse handler did not show up with our horses. We waited for two nights, and two days, instead of just one night. Our guide had no information for us, nor did he act like he cared, which was frustrating. In the end, by day two, and a late start, it was decided, we would drive the truck even further, to meet the horses. Okay, no problem, only when we met up, we mounted on tired horses, instead of fresh ones.
We were told a guests before us, had trouble on the pass and one of them fell off and hurt themselves, delaying the decent from the Reindeer Tribe camp. Nobody looked injured in their party, so it may have been an excuse. This still did not explain why we did not get fresh horses. This accent up the mountain was not an easy one; for the rider or the horses. Fresh horses would have been better on all.
At this base camp Ger, we were out on a prairie. Nothing was around us, but cows and a few horses, some hills and the looming mountain. It was sparse, but all very pretty; leading up to the horse camp, as well as being at the camp!
As it would turn out, because of the delay, we missed a great window of good weather, and got snow, overnight. The mountain looked beautiful, but the ride up to the top would be hard enough in good weather, let alone snow and freezing temperatures. Oh well, we had come this far.
Day 4-7:
*Horse Trekking
Horse trekking through the wonderful nature of Tsaatan Uuk Province, where we would finally meet a Tsaatan Reindeer Tribe.
In the next two days, after arriving at the camp, we experienced the local life, and culture of these nomadic people. I would get to ride a reindeer, and discover the heart of their real nature wilderness. Also, the Tribe showed us how to milk their Reindeer.
The experience of learning about the local life, and culture of these nomadic people, was such a joy, and we absolutely enjoyed the heart of real wilderness nature.
Stayed in: Teepee /2 nights
We left the base camp, to begin making our way up the mountain, on horseback. But, after our time with the Reindeer Tribe, we would come back down the mountain to stay, again, at this same base camp, before continuing on our Mongolian adventure.
Daryl and the guide got the two; more cooperative horses, out of the three, and I got the ornery one. After a bucking session, we came to a better understanding of who would be in charge, and then we all followed the grumpy horse handler, leading the way, and our guide, who was allergic to horses, struggled. (he tried wearing a mask, but it didn’t do a lot of good). I remember “chou chou” means “go,” to the horses.
It was rough going, but the scenery was breathtaking. We would sink in mud up to the horses bellies, as we trudged up the mountain side. There were no trails. It was very cold, and we were very happy to reach the Reindeer Camp after so many hours in the hardest saddles I would ever know.
We were suppose to camp overnight, going up the mountain, to break up the tough trip, but that did not happen. Nobody had answers, again. It all felt rushed!
The scenic wonder, all around us were quite fabulous. It took my breath away most of the time. Whenever we got into a the final clearing of the mountain top, it was really something and it made those prior rough hours of riding, melt away!
Finally reaching the Tsaatan; the last group of nomadic Reindeer Herders in Mongolia/Russia, was indeed, quite special. The Dukhas, or Tsaatan, derive their economy and their lifestyle from the Reindeer.
While we dismounted at the main teepee in the Reindeer Camp, and walked around to get the feeling back into our lowered extremities, the horses were cared for and hobbled, so they could eat, water themselves and finally rest. We were invited into our hosts teepee for a few rounds of airag; salted fermented milk, diluted with tea. Also, we savored the breads and butter; all homemade of course. Very good! The hot tea was heaven in our cold bodies!
After our rest and nourishment, we were shown to our teepee. I wasn’t expecting the Ritz, but kind of though it would be a little nicer. I just hoped it would not rain, while we were there, for two nights. We had a wood burning stove, and a hard, dirt floor, with a large opening at the top, for smoke to go out. Did that hole have to be so big? Setting up our sleeping area took five minutes. We had sleeping bags we brought with us and our pillows.
We wondered why our teepee was on a slope. We would later learn why.
Our guide began preparing our dinner, and we left to look around and check out the Reindeer! I was already in love with these beauties!
We also met another couple, who were staying at the camp. They were foreigners, but spoke a little English. They had been there a few nights, already, and they had decided to stay longer. I did notice their teepee looked different, like really nice…..like the hosts teepee.
We could pet the Reindeer, no problem. They were friendly, and curious, but they didn’t like their antlers touched. This was the highlight of our Mongolia trip for sure.
Our first night in the teepee went as well as could be expected, on frozen, hard ground. Our guide slept right through the fire needing stoked, so I did my best, till we ran out of wood. The teepee had wind holes all around, and the fire was super important, so we wouldn’t freeze. After that, I stayed tucked into my sleeping bag, and listened to the Reindeer grunt. If I had not seen the herd of Reindeer with my own eyes, I would have sworn, we were staying at a Hog farm. I did not hear them grunt during daylight hours, only at night and early morning.
I was glad for the daylight of dawn, so we could get up and get moving. I loved watching the workings of the Reindeer Tribe. There was milking to be done and then the alternating of the herd for those who remained at camp, or going up higher, to feed. The babies were always kept at camp, to make herding the adults back at night, much easier.
There were breeding Reindeer, and others who were bigger ones, trained to ride for herding.
The Reindeer cannot live in the steppe or along the valleys, due to the high temperatures. The Tsaatan live like this throughout the year with temperatures that reach no higher than 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit, and the much preferred, freezing temperatures.
The Reindeer milk is a precious food source to compliment the Tribes hunting. The milk is used for the production of cheese and for suutei chai, or milk mixed with black tea. The harsh environment means these people can not practice agriculture, because of the unfavorable growing conditions, limiting themselves to eating only meat, breads, and milk products from their Reindeer’s milk.
The Tribes tame the Reindeer and break them to be ridden when they are very young, loading them with a weight of at least 40 pounds in the first year, moving to about 80 pounds in the second year. Then able to be ridden by age five. The Tribe love all their Reindeer, and treat them like pets. They do not raise or slaughter any of their Reindeer for their consumption. However, if, in their herd, one becomes too old and feeble, or injured, they will not allow them to suffer, and only then will they be killed and eaten.
Few Tsaatan remain. Their population today, number only 44 families (about 200–400 people). They moved from Russia to Mongolian territory toward the end of World War II and tell of how they created positive ties with the Mongol state. Never moving from the taiga, they remained a separate group, compared to the inhabitants at the bottom of the valley or in the steppe, and are distinguished by their great knowledge of the territory.
The men’s faces are marked by harsh winters and working in the sun, giving them darker skin and a weathered physique.
As promised, I did get to ride one of the Reindeer! Yes, it was a thrill! Nothing like a horse. Much thinner and yet surprisingly smooth. Daryl, did not get to ride a Reindeer, as he is too big. I enjoyed it enough for the both of us!
By late afternoon, a surprise storm started brewing (as it can in the mountains). We hightailed it to our teepee to wait it out, but unfortunately, the storm never did stop. It raged on for the rest of the day, and all through the night. What started out as rain, turned into snow; wet, heavy snow, as the temperature dropped. Now I know why the teepee was on a slope, so the water would run out, instead of pool up!
The teepee was not sealed, so water was running down from the hole in the top, and coming in from most sides, and the ground was soaked, and still frozen! It was a mess.
We had gotten everything put away into our dry bag, earlier, except our clothes we were wearing. It was so cold, even with all our warm gear on, including gloves, scarves and hats, we just sat there on our wet sleeping bags, with our rain gear over everything we had on, to wait till morning. I would be lying if I said we were still having great fun.
Just before daylight, the rain had turned to snow. We were accumulating snow inside the teepee! Because this storm was so severe, we were told by the grumpy horse handler, we had to go, now, or we might be up here for days. There was no discussion about it. I tried. I’m not a panicky person, because I prefer to think through options. Our guide, as usual, was no help. In the end, because of language barrier, we had no choice, but to jump into action. Soon, the horses were saddled and prancing around, eager to go.
We noticed the other guests were also hustling to get out. I asked them about their night. We were told they did not even know the weather had gotten this bad. They were warm, dry and had cushions to sleep on. Hmmm? I was very happy for them, but I wanted to find out what was up with our reservation?
As soon as the pack horse got loaded up, everything happened so fast! It was a total blizzard, as we started our way back down the mountain, to base camp. We were all feeling a little gloomy, cold, wet and uncomfortable, when the most amazing thing happened! Bounding right next to us, as we road out, were several Reindeer! They were literally bouncing, and racing ahead of us. I swear they had smiles on their faces! This was their kind of weather, and they were truly in their element!
The winter Reindeer scene and bouncing (almost flying) was incredible. I didn’t get photos, because everything electronic was in the dry bag, but I will never forget that scene of happy Reindeer as long as I live!
We were pushed hard by the horse handler, until the snow turned to rain. After that, we slid and slipped all the way down the mountain on our horses.
At one point, the pack horse (who always just followed) decided to go rogue. We all stopped, in mud up to the horses belly, while the handler went after the pack horse. After he got back with the horse and gear, we continued on. Soon, I noticed the pack slipping off the pack horse…one last swipe by a tree and boom, the pack hits the ground, and scared the horse. Off it went again. At least the delays gave the horses a chance to rest. Animal and man were shivering with cold. The horse was caught again, and the pack put back on, and it wasn’t long, before it stopped raining. By the time we were out of the forest, we had a little sun.
Back at the Ger base camp, the hot fire in the wood stove of our Ger was great for getting all of us warmed up again, and get our gear and clothes dried out, by the next morning. I hadn’t slept much in two night, but in this night I slept like the dead!
I would also get the answers I was seeking, about that lousy teepee at the mountain camp. Come to find out, with our delay of getting our horses on time, and getting such a late start, the Tribe was no longer expecting us. The couple that were suppose to have left, decided to stay, thus enjoying their comfortable teepee longer, or should I say OUR teepee. I don’t know if they knew anything about us coming. Apparently, when we showed up, late, the hosts had to clear out a “catch-all” teepee, so we had a place to sleep. This would explain the lack of cushions, and a properly wrapped, and water-proof teepee.
We would also learn, the itinerary we agreed on and paid for was not the itinerary we got, starting with the pack horse trip. We were suppose to spend two nights coming and going down from the Reindeer Camp. Instead, we were pushed to get up and down the mountain in two days. There was another Tribe we could have gone to, but didn’t get to. We would have been happy to move to the good guest teepee and stayed out the storm, since the other couple were leaving.
In the end, guess what all the delays and pushing us was all about? Pine nut season!! Yes, once a year, wild Pine nuts are ready for harvest and all the remote-living locals get in on that, because they make good money selling the Pine nuts after they pick them. It’s huge business, and nothing else matters. Not even the paying guests.
The biggest problem with changing itineraries, is the confusion and misunderstandings that go along with a big change. Nothing is in writing, any longer, so it’s difficult to understand where we were at and what we were seeing, as we traveled along. Language barrier was an issue.
The guide was a kid, and just not mature enough to handle the job. Our driver was great, but he spoke zero English. The same thing happened to us in Tibet. Itineraries are important to the foreign traveler, plus foreigners, like us, who are recording our adventures. Writing gets much harder; getting proper names and spelling of places, for researching later.
So, we recommend this trip in Mongolia, but not during Pine nut season, and not with a child-boy for a guide.
To enjoy all the photos from the first seven days of our trip, just click on the links, below:
Shaman Ovoos All Around Mongolia:
First Volcano and Cabin:
https://picsbypen.smugmug.com/Places/AsiaLife/Mongolia-13-Day-Tour/Uran-Togoo-Mountains-and-Volcano
The Dark Blue Pearl:
Horse Pack Trip and Reindeer Tribe:
”Just In Case You Missed It”~Mongolia 🇲🇳
We traveled for two weeks on a private tour in Central and the Northern most region of this country/possibly and most likely, entering into Russia 🇷🇺, in search of the nomadic Reindeer Tribe. This was not an easy trip, but a fantastic trip, just the same, and we are VERY proud of these miles!🇲🇳
~ To and through Mongolia 4,854 Miles
Here are the links to view Part 2 and Part 3 blog posts of our Wilderness Adventure in Mongolia
Part 2 of 3 Days 8-13
Part 3 of 3 Day 14
Next up, we flew out of Mongolia, and back to Kazakastan, to spend a week unwinding, writing, doing our photos and blogging. Then, we flew to the UAE 🇦🇪 to spend about four days in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
Archive Blog Posts of Our Country Visits
About Us
About Us
Hello and Welcome to our Travel Blog Website, We enjoy writing about our experiences and taking photos of our adventuring along the way. Our names are: Daryl and Pen, but Daryl calls me “Bunny.” We met, quite randomly, whilst both… Read More