“USA 🇺🇸 ~Texas to ~Mexico 🇲🇽 via Big Bend National Park to Boquillas de Carmen We Made a Run For the Border”

• October 29, 2023
• By Pen
• 0 Comment

…Okay, it was more like we took a little boat, to cross the Rio Grande River. We didn’t run…..

Spending Time in Boquillas de Carmen, Mexico 🇲🇽 

We made another drive into Big Bend National Park. It was quite spectacular, as the sun was just coming up. The entire drive was really pretty; so peaceful and quiet. It’s liked we had the whole Park to ourselves.

⬆️ Too early for the Park gate to be manned. Entrance is always free, before Park hours and after park hours, when the access road remains open, after said hours.

⬆️ Daryls spotted some wild Burros. We had to check them out. At first, they ran from us, but I was driving really slow, so they got curious and started coming towards us.

⬆️ Photo Bomb!

⬆️ Photo Bomb Again!

It took around an hour, to drive from our RV Park in Terlingua, and make our way to the Rio Grand Village to see what was there. Not much to see, but it looked like the put-in location for Kayaks and Canoes on the Rio Grande.

Had we not gone all the way to the end, we would have missed the pack of Javalinas, crossing the road!

We drove back, one mile, from Rio Grande Village for the road that goes to the Boquillas Crossing, and we saw one more Javalina ⬇️

⬇️ We arrived, after a short drive on a maintained gravel road. From there, we parked Jonah and walked in to the immigration area. I think we were the first guests of the day.

No motorized vehicles are allowed beyond this crossing.

The Rio Grande River

Big Bend National Park shares 118 miles of the Rio Grande River with Mexico, and it is possible to cross this border, and spend the day in the small village of Boquillas de Carmen, Mexico. What does Boquillas translate to, in English? … “Nozzle.”

We’ve come a long way, baby…..since, in 1910, the Mexican Revolution broke out, and for more than ten years, the Big Bend became a danger zone. There were raids, pitched battles, and massacres on both sides of the Rio Grande River. Due to strained relations between the countries, the United States and Mexico almost went to war.

Now, in current day, there is peace, and crossing the border for the day, from within a National Park is one of the most unique day trips there is, so we thought; how fun, and off we went!!

Although water sources dot the landscape in Big Bend National Park, and flash floods occur after heavy rains, the Rio Grande is the Park’s most prominent source of water.
The Rio Grande begins its journey to the Gulf of Mexico, from springs and snow melt; high in the southern Rocky Mountains of Colorado.

Have A Plan

Below, at the NPS website, where you can check the official hours of this border crossing, and you can confirm this is a real thing to do.

https://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/visiting-boquillas.htm

BUT, in real life, the current hours are below (today fell into the Summer category), and the times did not match the website. I ended up calling and got a live human to verify: 432-477-2251

(Actual)
SUMMER:
May 1 –November 1
Friday-Monday, 9 am – 4pm

(definitely check)
WINTER:
November 2 – April 30 Wednesday-Sunday, 8 am – 5 pm

IMPORTANT:
Do not forget your passport

U.S. currency is accepted in Boquillas, though visitors are advised to bring smaller bills and rely on Boquillas vendors to provide change for their purchases. The smaller your change is, the better bargaining power you will have, when purchasing trinkets.

The Rio Grande Village Store and the Rio Grande Visitor Center cannot make change for visitors traveling to Boquillas.

Passport control was quick and easy, inside a wonderfully air conditioned office. A Border Officer greeted us and explained everything we needed to know for our time in Boquillas; like what not to bring back: alcohol, rocks, plants, donkeys… then he asked to see that we had our passports and if they were out of date. He did not look inside them. We got the okay and headed out the door.

We began walking a short path to the Rio Grande River. To cross the Rio Grande, one could wade on a day like today for free, or take the boat, which cost $5 US per person; and this included the return trip, back to the USA side.

The Rio was very shallow, and non existent, in some spots. Across the river, we could see many Donkeys and Horses; all saddled up and ready to go.

The “international ferry” is literally a rowboat. Once we were loaded in the boat, a gentleman pulled us across the water. It was shallow enough for him to wade. We got out of the boat on the Mexico side, and paid our boat fee, and went towards the stable of waiting rides.

….the only thing missing from this scene are wild Elephants in the background and Crocodiles in the water….I had a flashback to an Africa, safari… looked so familiar, yet thousands of miles away!

When we first got across, we were assigned a guide. The guides are so happy to help out, and you should embrace the guide option. These village folks don’t have a lot and aren’t trying to scam you, as they are only trying to make a sincere living and show you around their home. Guides are not required, but they are there to manage the four legged animals for you, and there is only a tip of your choice, to pay at the end.

The Donkeys or Horses and a guide will shuttle you into town; also for $5 each. You can also pay a bit more for a ride up in a truck ($10 each), or choose to walk into town for free. It’s only a mile walk and very doable, but hey, Donkeys! Cute Donkeys.
Quite obviously, we chose Donkeys. (Daryl had never ridden a Donkey, before). 

⬆️ My Donkey’s was named “Tornado.” Daryl’s was “Sparta.” They were healthy and seemed happy to trot and walk along.

Once we got off our Donkeys, in the village of Boguillas, and our guide tied them up, to await our return, our first stop would be a white trailer that serves as the Mexico Immigration Office. Here was a very good reason for the guide. We would have forgotten the immigration stop on this side, since it was already a bit since we crossed the Rio, and we would have just started exploring.
Inside the air conditioned trailer, we paid a nice lady, about $3.50 each for the pleasure of our visit in Boquillas.

We got wrist bands to wear while in Mexico. Daryls band stayed on, but mine did not. Oops. I had no idea when or where it disappeared. Nobody seemed to care.

Our guide did great and showed us through the village of Boquillas, and where the hot springs were; which we would have never known, without him. It was way too hot to even entertain the idea of hiking down to it and back, plus the hot soak on a too hot of a day for us, but, in the winter time, I bet the locals enjoy this. Our guide spoke okay good English and was very nice.

⬆️ Bar..closed on Sunday

⬆️ Church

⬆️ Pre-School
Secondary School ⬇️

⬆️ Medical Clinic

⬆️ Boquillas Canyon on the Mexico side

⬆️ Rio Grande and Hot Springs

⬆️ At the end of our walk-a-about, we picked this restaurant. We were parched and hungry! We got bottled water and ordered breakfast. It was quite good.

I got authentic Huevos ala Mexicans:  Scrambled Eggs with onions, tomatoes and Jalapeños (hold the jalapeños)

Daryl got Huevos Ranchero: Soft Fried Eggs with brown gravy and refried beans.

It was delicious, but spendy, at $30 plus.

This restaurant has a nice view and very clean bathrooms 

I did a little shopping for the grandkiddos.
Just about every family in Boquillas makes things to sell to visitors: Scorpion and roadrunner shaped from copper wire and beads; walking sticks, hand decorated with local motifs; embroidered items like place-mats and tote bags. There were hats, jewelry, and clothes; ponchos. There were some nice pottery items, too.
We walked through town and saw it all. Nothing is cheap, so bring lots of cash.

Our guide got our Donkeys for us, and we rode back to the Rio Grande. By this time, other guests were arriving on their Donkeys. It was looking like the village would have a good tourist day, on a Sunday.

Once back over on the US side of the Rio Grand, we returned to the immigration office. For our return, Daryl filled out a form on a digital device that looked like a big iPad on a kiosk stand. The border agent then swiped our passports in it, and rang up the border patrol office in El Paso, Texas, so we could talk to a border agent, there. It was like a FaceTime operations. He wanted to know if we made purchases in Mexico. If we brought back any alcohol, rocks, plants or Donkeys, and that was about it. We were free to go.

We spent a few hours over the border and enjoyed the visit. All the locals were very friendly, and we felt very welcomed. It is perfectly safe to go, and was well managed.
It was also just the right amount of time for us, plus the two hour drive time. In total, it was a great day trip and such a unique thing to do from one of our own National Parks! An early morning trip was a very good choice, since it gets very hot, very early around here.

Our plan, after our Boquillas visit, was to hike Boquillas Canyon, after we got back into Big Bend, because this trail was open, but, as luck would have it, another storm began to brew, and we were told by a local, a flash flood was on its way. Also, big winds were suppose to be a part of this new system; and last through the night. It then felt more prudent to just play it safe, and go back to The Whale.

Flash Floods in the desert are nothing to mess with.

We really weren’t too disappointed we didn’t hike, since we got plenty of exercise, otherwise, and having a good time in Mexico.

The weather held out good for us, on this Texas stop, until our last day and a half.
We got to see, and be on the Rio Grande; both USA and Mexico sides, so we felt very filled-up on all things Big Bend, Mexico, and Ghostowns. It seemed specific hiking was just not in the cards for us, on this trip.

About Boquillas del Carmen

On April 10, 2013 the United States’ newest international port of entry; between Big Bend National Park, Texas to Boquillas del Carmen, Coahuila, Mexico, opened to the public. Prior to May 2002, this crossing once served up to 15,000 people per year, with visitors travelling freely between Big Bend National Park and the tiny village of Boquillas. It is an isolated and primitive outpost amidst a vast wilderness, 150 miles from a major town on either side of the border.

Sadly, the original town of Boquillas was destroyed by a flood by the Rio Grande River, in 1906. But, it made a come back.

Boquillas is surrounded by a 520,000 acre Biosphere Preserve. The Maderas del Carmen Preserve includes deep desert canyons and rugged mountains peaks over 10,000.′ It is home to 70 mammal and over 400 bird species. Mexican Natural Preserves charge admission fees of $1.50. Sometimes fees are collected in Boquillas. Fees may be charged during peak seasons, and without notice. Funds go to protect critical wildlife habitat.

Final Tips For Visiting Boquillas, Mexico 🇲🇽

✅ It’s safe! Border towns have a bad reputation, but Boquillas is not your average border town. It’s a small village. However, Boquillas del Carmen feels like a remnant of the past.  You’ll make friends with anyone you talk to, there.

✅ Come with an open mind and you will have a good time. We felt very safe, even with our large, attention-calling cameras.

✅ Not many people cross this border each day, and in the busy season, you can expect between 30-40 people. This is a peaceful way to spend a day away from crowds.

✅ This small village survives on tourism, so spend where you can. Take the “ferry,” tip your guide, eat in the restaurants, and purchase souvenirs.

✅ Dress appropriately. Protect yourself from the sun on hot summer days: wear a hat, and sunglasses.

✅ Be sure to pack plenty of water and drink it.

✅ Maybe this is a given, but bring your passport. It’s easy to forget when visiting a US National Park, but this is an international border crossing.

✅ You don’t need a guide, but if you don’t speak Spanish it will make your day much more enjoyable. You can spend as much or as little time with them as you want.

✅ Check the opening hours or call…(listed earlier in this article) before planning your visit. The border crossing is not open every day and the hours change, seasonally.

The Struggles of Boquillas de Carmen, Mexico

First, the Boquillas del Carmen border crossing was closed in 2002, due to increased border security post-9/11, and didn’t reopen for ten long years. Boquillas suffered greatly, and was nearly wiped off the map.

This was a village which is completely survived by the border tourism it brings. Tourism is still the main source of income, here. Also, supplies and food were more easily accessed at the border, than from other cities in Mexico, which were much further away.

Boquillas nearly became a ghost town as the students left to study in other cities and younger adults looked for work, elsewhere. There simply was no work there, after the border closed.

Since the border has reopened, on April 10, 2013, the village has come back to life and luckily, most of the same people have returned. The current population is around 200, still a large cut from the 300 that lived here, prior to 2002.

Then, the Plandemic hit! The Boquillas Crossing was closed mid-March of 2020.
Before the new Port of Entry opened April 10, 2013, the population of Boquillas del Carmen had dropped to less than 100 persons. As of March 1, 2020, Boquillas had close to 300 residents; the growth, due entirely, to a tourism economy generated by visitors to Big Bend National Park.
In 2019, almost 20,000 people crossed the Rio Grande/Rio Bravo to visit Boquillas. Due to the Covid pandemic, 65 families in Boquillas were struggling to survive.

On Friday, July 31, the Municipal government of Ocampo delivered the 4th emergency supply shipment to Boquillas, financed by the Boquillas Covid Response Fund; Go Fund Me campaign. These shipments provided staple food items as well as baby formula, diapers and other needs customized by each families needs. It is unfortunate that the crisis did not end, and at least one more delivery was needed at the end of August. This project was made possible, by the generous donations of hundreds of people; all friend of Boquillas del Carmen. We all looked forward to the day when Big Bend National Park opened again, so visits could resume in Boquillas. 

After 20 months of closures, the Boquillas Port of Entry, within Big Bend National Park, providing access to the village of Boquillas, Coahuila, Mexico, as well as the Maderas del Carmen and Ocampo protected areas, re-opened on Wednesday, November 17, 2021.

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We did, in fact, get a crazy weather system for sure. The winds were bursts, of up to 35 mph. This did go on that afternoon, all night and into the next day. Also, the temperature suddenly dropped down, 30 degrees; both night and day. (I love cooler temps) It is overcast for sure, but there has been no significant rains, after all.

On this last, cloudy, cool day, we are content to stay in. There is always cooking, cleaning and laundry to do. 

More Photos from our Rv Park Stay ⬇️

We depart the Big Bend area, tomorrow, and head East, again, towards Houston, Texas for our next stop.  This will take a few drive days to accomplish, at our pace. We are very excited to see friends and family, not seen in years!!!

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TEXAS

MEXICO