“Georgia 🇬🇪 ~Scenic to Ushguli, Ushba Peak, Horseback Riding, Zagari Pass in 4×4, Miriam Church, and Svaneti Towers at the Highest Continually Inhabited Settlement in all of Europe”

• June 19, 2021
• By Pen
• 2 Comments

We did it! We made it to Ushguli! Wow, what beauty! I just knew it would be great! The drive continued to be stunning, all the way!
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We left Mestia after a two-night stay, needing to juggle the rain, as we needed dry roads for our way to Ushguli.
In Mestia, we did get our first taste of seeing multiple Medieval Towers in one area. Mestia was very pretty, and apparently a small ski resort in the winter, as we saw one ski lift.
For being a small, and a very remote area, with one main road, it was surprisingly noisy, especially at night. We were glad to be on our way, and as we hoped, we awoke to beautiful sunshine and blue sky.
We knew we had a couple of hours of driving, to reach our goal of Ushguli, but we were motivated. An added bonus of departing from Mestia a different direction from the way we came in, was seeing Ushba Peak again, on a clearer day and from a different view point.

Overlooking Mestia, one more time ⬆️

Ushba Peak ⬆️⬇️

The first hour of driving went fine, but sure enough we ran into more torn up roads. I was driving this time, so Daryl was the one who moved rocks out of the way and tested how deep the water was in the big holes of the roads. ⬇️

On this trip, we crossed about three waterfalls running across the road ⬇️ Now, that was a first for us! Luckily the waters falling across the road weren’t strong enough, or deep enough to push us off the cliff!

We would climb elevation from almost 5,000 feet above sea level, to around 7,910 feet.

Enjoy the photos from the drive up to Ushguli ⬇️

This was unexpected and appreciated, on our road-trip. It would appear a local is making some money, allowing guests to go inside their family-owned Tower. We jumped at the chance, as it was unclear if we would get another opportunity to see inside a Medieval Tower. Super Cool!

The stone steps were about four inches deep. It was a sideways climb to start.
There Mr Terrific goes!

Up and up. There were four levels. I would not call each level, roomy.

Back in the car, we continued on our beautiful drive ⬇️

We found another Stone Bridge! I do not know the name, or if it’s part of the 28 ancient bridges noted by Georgian tourism, but it’s super great, just the same. Looks like it’s been refurbished, recently.

Look closely to see two backpackers ⬆️

There are plenty of trails in these mountains for those who love to hike, and backpack: You can hike to the Shkhara Glacier. You can hike to Zeskho (lower Svaneti) and subsequently: Ghebi and Gona Villages of Racha, and continue exploring Racha region by visiting Udziro Lake. You can get more info for Zeskho-Ghebi hike here:

https://www.caucasus-trekking.com/treks/svanetiracha

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Not knowing, with each bend in the road, if it will be better or worse, is nuts! Oh Georgia 🇬🇪 

We focused on the beauty around us, as much as the road. The views would win us over, big time!

Always good to know

By this point, we knew we would be successful, reaching  the highest, continually inhabited settlements in all of Europe. It was hard-earned, and we are proud!
Whew!
We began looking for lodging, with limited options. We loved this place, as soon as we arrived, and decided to stay for awhile.
The trekking routes around Ushguli in Georgia, reminds us of the Annapurna circuit in Nepal. (but Ushguli and the Glacier area is quite small, in comparison).
I discovered there is a route here with housing of some type all over, even inside the ancient villages. In our wanderings, we would see little worn signs of rooms for rent, or pay to go inside Towers, but very few were open.

These type of experiences are wonderful to us, but on this trip, we will be thrilled to do a horse trek from Ushguli to the Shkhara Glacier and back; weather permitting.

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Here is another link to the Ushguli Settlement, digitally sharing info about hiking. Definitely give yourself a few days to see what is around. It’s really amazing! In addition, there is a must-do 4×4 trip over a nearby pass. We are busy and the weather has really cooperated!!

COVID has impacted tourism in a big way up here. I’m sure more places would be open and thriving, if it were busier.

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It is cooler (comfortably so) this high up, and though very remote, we got a room and meals with no problem. We know we picked well, because we met a Brit, who was staying in one of the ancient village guest rooms. He said it was terrible, and moved over where we are. It would be on the main road, or lack there of, off the main road, coming in. The villages are walk-in, not drive in, unless in a 4×4.

We have a beautiful view of a 9th to 12th century St Mary’s Church, the huge Shkhara Glacier, and green mountains, right from our hotel balcony. It is amazing!
We even have okay, to decent WIFI, when the electricity is working, which was a pleasant surprise ⬇️

Panorama Ushguli Hotel.
We recommend 

$41/night includes meals. Food is basic soup, bread, salad, and a little meat. I read a review from a tourist who complained about everything. Travelers need to understand the places up here (so remote) are not going to be the Ritz. It will also be a bit more pricey for what you get.
Given our experience with such situations, getting a private bathroom was golden! If it’s clean and the food is satisfactory, that’s what counts. 

It is quiet, we have fresh mountain air, it’s relaxing, and the views never gets old!
The only noise are free-range animals: pigs, horses, and cows, unless noisy tourists arrive at 11PM at night, coming in just over the mountains from Russia 🇷🇺; and want to party 😳.
We have seen foreign tourists up here, but no place else in Georgia.
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The Ushguli Villages contain buildings that are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Upper Svaneti, with the highest altitude being around 7,910 feet above sea level.

Church of Lamaria, or St Mary’s, built between the 9th and 12th century, was beckoning us to visit, first, so we did.

In Ushguli, on a lonely hill, with the beautiful Glacier as a backdrop, stands the ancient Lamaria Church, also known as the Church of the Assumption of the Mother of God; St Mary’s, where regular services are still held.
The Church has a fence around it with a fortified Tower. It is a basilica-type building, with a three-sided, projecting apse. The church has an entrance from the west, and the chapel- from the south-west. The iconostasis is made of stone. Some local residents believe, it is under this church, where Queen Tamar; who was a central figure in Svans history, is buried. (her burial site is still unknown).
The locals believed their Queen to be a Christian benefactor who built all their temples, and gave generous gifts to churches.
Every year on the 28 of August, many locals from all around Georgia, gather here to celebrate “the day of St. Mary.”

A Legend of Lamaria is connected with a murder in the late 19th century of a lord named Puta Dadeshkeliani. This lord wanted to rule over the people of Ushguli.
The people agreed to a meeting with him, in front of the church. There, the entire town helped pull a cord attached to the trigger of a rifle, thus dividing equally the responsibility for killing the man who sought to rule over people who had never had a ruler. Any other way to commit the murder, the family of the lord would have sought revenge with blood of the murderer, if it was only one person.

The Stone iconostasis (Chapel) was locked, so we could not enter. 

We are guessing an ancient Baptismal

When the priest came out of the Tower, we asked if we could be blessed and enter the church. He said “namaste,” did the sign of the cross, pointed towards the way we had walked from and said leave! I thought that was very rude, and did not feel the least bit blessed! So, we left.
While I did not have my shoulders covered, Daryl was wearing long pants and should have been allowed in.
We heard about the original frescos, still in good shape, and we wanted to see them. I would have waited, so Daryl could have. But no. Not off to a great start, but we are not easily deterred.
Sadly, the churches around the world are where we feel the most unwelcomed, during visits. It does rub us the wrong way for sure, as we are always respectful. I’m talking about when prepared and dressed perfectly proper, according to their rules, too. Oh well, it is how the cookie crumbles.
Here is a photo from the internet of the ancient fresco of Jesus: 

Picture © Credits to efesenko

We would wander the cemetery of St Mary’s Church, as we are always curious about grave markers and the stories the departed tell.
Here’s one: earlier we had seen a sign in a village indicating an art gallery. The sign had a face of the artist and some small pieces of artwork (as in photos on the sign), but the art gallery was closed. Since we knew what the guy looked like, I commented to Daryl that maybe we would see him around.

We did see his face around, but it was on a grave marker, with a colorful art print. He had passed in 2020. I did not see that coming!

More grave markers ⬇️

The very back (brown) lodge is where we are staying. This is the view, looking back from St Mary’s Church (Lamaria). 

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We are somewhat confused on what exactly is “UNESCO,” about this village of Chazhashi. We do not see an official sign, (no signs posted at any villages), but the village does look like the photos from the internet. Like Mestia’s Towers, Ushguli’s medieval village is occupied, too; so being able to explore the buildings wasn’t as possible, here either, since locals still live here in the ancient quarters, or they were locked up.
At first we believed it just might be that the location has been deemed a UNESCO Site, but more work is planned.
Because the Georgian government is building a road to connect Ushguli to the notably more touristy village of Mestia, the prospects of money flowing into their pockets make the locals get enthusiast about their old properties.
The Unesco listing for the Svaneti region reads: “ln 1991 the whole Svaneti region was designated as a reserve at the request of the general public. Within this area the policy will be to preserve not only individual monuments but also the villages and the landscape as a whole.”
Since 2017, UNESCO has been in the process of reconstructing the oldest part of the Village, and trucks have brought long logs of wood, and bricks in, meant for restaurants and guesthouses. Progress may be slow, but it sounds like it’s still a go on most days?
The road to get here, is definitely not up to UNESCO standards, from our experience of the World Heritage Sites.
Here is an article which helps explain why there is some confusion
https://eurasianet.org/perspectives-the-threats-to-georgias-world-heritage-sites

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In total, there are four small villages, which make up the settlement of Ushguli:

Zhibiani is 6,900 feet above sea level, Chvibiani (or Chubiani), similar in elevation, with Chazhashi (or Chajashi) as the highest; well over 7,000 feet, and Murqmeli, being at the lowest elevation of the four.

⬆️ The buffer zone of 37 acres includes the hamlets of Murqmeli, Chvibiani and Zhibiani. UNESCO says the acreage represent a cultural area in which medieval architecture has been preserved thanks to traditional forms of land use.

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Chazhashi Village ⬇️

Chazhashi Village; UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the Oldest and Highest Continually Inhabited Settlement in all of Europe! ⬆️⬇️

This woman was sitting in the same place when we walked in, as when we left, and she motioned for me to come sit with her. I was honored. We communicated with smiles and I got she didn’t understand why I wasn’t freezing cold. (I get that a lot, everywhere we go. I’m super hot blooded, especially when hiking). 

We crossed the stone bridge to enter Chazhashi Village; a maze of sorts, once we entered, where avoiding the mud and piles of “you know what,” from all the free-range critters is part of the adventure. The fact people still live like this, is amazing to me. These stone Tower-homes have been passed down since the 9th century; generation after generation. How special the structures and the people are still here!

This is a double Tower. It’s the only one we have seen. 

A peek inside the double-Tower. The bottom floor is mostly for animals, both in ancient times and now.

Chazhashi Savior Church ⬆️ dates back to the 10th century. It sits on the hill with the Queens Blacks Tower.
The monumental construction if the church, is built with shale, and it has a fence and outbuilding as well, which dates to an earlier period.

This famous Georgian Queen is said to be so powerful that she was often referred to as “King Tamar.”
Supposedly, the Svaneti region was her favorite and she came to Ushguli several times. The name Chazhashi, (the oldest part of Ushguli), translates to “a place to tie the horse.” It is said the Queen tied her horse there herself, at Queen Tamar’s Black Tower, upon arrival of her visits.

The Black Tower of Queen Tamar can be found inside the Village ⬆️ This is where she would stay in Winter, when she visited.

The Summer Castle (Tower) ⬆️ of Queen Tamar can be seen high about the same Village, at 7,217 feet above sea level.
The Tamar Castle originally had four defensive stone towers, of which one survives; connected by a curtain wall. The castles three other Towers, but were destroyed by the Soviets in the 1930’s.

There is no road to this location, and the hike up is challenging. 

The summer and winter Castles (Towers) were Queen Tamar’s Fortresses, where she resided in respective seasons.

Queen Tamar: 1160 – 1213 of the Bagrationi dynasty, was Queen Regnant of Georgia from 1184 to 1213.

Tamar presided over the “Golden age” of the medieval Georgian monarchy. Her unique position as the first woman to rule Georgia in her own right, was emphasized by the title mep’e “king,” commonly afforded to Tamar in the medieval Georgian sources.
Tamar was proclaimed heir apparent and co-ruler by her reigning father; George III in 1178, but she faced significant opposition from the aristocracy upon her ascension to full ruling powers, after George’s death. Nevertheless, Tamar was successful in neutralizing this opposition and embarked on an energetic foreign policy, aided by the downfall of the rival powers of the Seljuqs and the Byzantine Empire. Supported by a powerful military élite, Tamar was able to build on the successes of her predecessors to consolidate an empire which dominated the Caucasus, until its collapse under the Mongol attacks within two decades after Tamar’s death.

More information indicates that when Queen Tamar died, her people didn´t want to disclose the secret of her grave to the enemies. For this reason, they built seven Castles (Towers) and made a crypt in each of them, so that her real place of burial would remain hidden.
Sadly, the architects and constructors of these Castles supposedly committed suicide after finishing their noble project, to avoid accidentally or forcefully confiding the information to the wrong ears.

The Villages are all amazing, and we very glad we came. What a great window into the past this settlement provides, and we are surrounded by absolutely gorgeous views

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Murqmeli Village ⬇️

View from Chazhashi Village, looking at Murqmeli Village. ⬆️

If you look really close, you can see Daryl ⬆️ walking back up.

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Zhibiani Village ⬇️

St. George’s Church of Nakiphari is from the 9th century, and the frescos inside, are from the 12th century; attributed by Royal Painter to King David the Builder, Tevdore. 

The “keeper of the key” was not around during our visit, so we could not enter. Always a bummer.

Loved the door!

View of St George from our balcony 

Given the much colder climate in the mountains, the pigs have more hair to keep warm, during the winter months. Snow covers the area for six months of the year.
Having been to Scotland and saw their furry Scottish Highlander cattle, as well as seeing furry Yaks in Mongolia and Tibet, I’m a bit surprised the cattle up here in the mountains of Georgia, are fur-less. They must be very hardy!

The Village Museum. Also closed. Not a huge deal, since everywhere we go up here, is an open-air museum.

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Chvibiani Village ⬇️

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About The Saventi Towers of Georgia 🇬🇪 and History of their Medieval Culture

Svaneti is situated on the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus mountains in the northwestern part of Georgia. It is the highest inhabited part of the Caucasus.
The characteristic landscape of Upper Svaneti is formed by small villages situated on the mountain slopes, with a natural environment of gorges and alpine valleys and a backdrop of snow-covered mountains.
Svaneti is known for its wonderful scenery and its architectural treasures, including dozens of Churches and the famous Svanetian Towers, built mainly between the 9th through the 12th centuries.

The Towers were built as protection against invaders and raiders.
For many centuries, the Svans (Georgians) had been in contact with the northern Caucasian tribes on the other side of the mountains, and with the Ossetians to the east. Though trading took place, these relations were often hostile, with raiding parties from one or the other group, attempting to seize the other’s property.
The Towers protected families during the blood-feuds, which often took place in these communities, during medieval times. Instead of entrusting the defense of a village or town to a large Fortress or Castle, each Svan family built their own Tower.
The Towers usually have from three to five stories and the thickness of the walls decreases, giving the Towers a slender, tapering profile.
For protection, the entrance to a Tower is some twelve feet above the ground, with a ladder or staircase below that could be destroyed in the event of an attack. Inside, large, flat rocks lay beside the ladder holes, ready to be employed as seals. Each Tower is attached to a “machubi;” a big two-story house. The ground floor is a single hall with an open hearth and accommodation for both people and domestic animals, the latter being separated by a wooden partition; which was often lavishly decorated.
A corridor annex helped the thermal insulation of the building.
The upper floor, called a “darbazi,” was used by the family in the summer, and also served as a storeroom for fodder and tools. A door at this level provided access to the tower, which was also connected with the corridor, that protected the entrance.
The house was heated by an open hearth in the center of the hall, where food was also cooked. The residential unit was completed by a low boundary wall that enclosed an adjoining courtyard with stables and accessory structures.
Sometimes, families consisted upwards of thirty or even a hundred members, and they lived in huge residential compounds, with several Towers constructed, to accommodate them.

Many of the Tower-houses have disappeared, or have collapsed into ruins over time. However, the village of Chazhashi, part of a group of villages, collectively called Ushguli, is located at the head of the Enguri gorge in Upper Svaneti, and has been preserved as a museum-reserve.
Overall, there are more than 200 Towers, which have survived in the Svanti Range. Other Towers can be seen in Mestia and the frontier villages, such as Latali.

The architectural monuments of Upper Svanetia are included in a list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

If interested, click on this link to see photos of Svaneti from the 19th century: 

https://georgiaabout.com/2014/03/18/photographs-of-19th-century-svaneti/

Georgia is a country in the Caucasus region. Situated at the juncture of Western Asia and Eastern Europe, it is bound to the west by the Black Sea, to the north by Russia, to the south by Turkey and Armenia, and to the east by Azerbaijan.
The Greater-Caucasus range is the dividing line between Russia and countries of Georgia and Azerbaijan. The Lesser-Caucasus extends from the south part of Georgia, through Armenia, to the southwestern section of Azerbaijan. This smaller range is adjacent to Turkey and Iran as well.

A recap About the Territory

There are three nation states: Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan. And there are three (disputed) breakaway territories: Nagorny-Karabakh (between Armenia and Azerbaijan), and Abkhazia and South Ossetia, which split from Georgia de facto in 1992-1993, and were recognized as independent by Russia in 2008.
Slavic groups account for more than one-third of the total population of the Caucasus; they live in the north and consist mainly of Russians and Ukrainians. Finally, there are such Indo-European groups as Kurds, Talysh, Tats, Greeks, and Roma (Gypsies) distributed in various areas of the Caucasus.

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4×4 Drive Over the Zagari Pass and Mariam Church

This high mountain pass is at an elevation of 8,595 feet above sea level, located in the Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti region.
The road links Ushguli in Upper Svaneti and Mele Village in Lower Svaneti going up quite sharply.
The drive can take your breath away for many reasons! The going is bumpy, (which is code in Georgia for aweful)! It is littered with rocks, frequent streams and perilously steep drops. The road is hardly used because it’s so tough. It’s definitely not a trip for anyone suffering from vertigo or fear of landslides.
The road is in awful shape. Periods of much rain can make the road underivable, even with a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
The road encompasses miles of stunning views through twisty hair pin corners, high elevations and steep grades. The journey offers astounding views of mountain peaks, luscious valleys, and the remains of glaciers.

From Ushguli to Zagari Pass, the road, with a length of just 3 plus miles is measured in time, more than distance, as it can take a few hours, if ones goes the full distance. It is extremely difficult and is only open a few months out of the year.
To drive this road, or really this trail, supreme confidence in ones driving skills, familiarity with the terrain, and a good vehicle are all necessary.
Also, the armed robberies you may have heard probably heard about seem to be a thing of the past, and one can safely travel across the region, now. 😳

We went as far as Mariam Church above the pass. Our driver and hotel proprietor helped build this cute little church. He rang the bells for us, and they echoed off the mountains! Super great!
A 4×4 makes so much difference, not to mention we both got to just relax and let somebody else drive! At one point, half way, we drove through obvious plowed snow from the road, and both sides of the road had about 15 feet of said snow. Without some sort of plow, this pass would be impossible! We enjoyed this outing so much! ⬇️

Mariam Church is found just beyond the Zagari Pass

The Caucasus Mountains feature Europe’s highest peaks by a considerable margin.
There are 200 peaks over 13123.36 feet above sea level,  30 over 14763.78 feet and seven over 16404.2 feet; including the granddaddy, Mt Elbrus at 18,510 feet.
Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe at 15, 771 feet is exceeded by 15 Caucasus peaks!

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Horseback Riding to the Shkhara Glacier and Back to Ushguli 

We left from our hotel, where the owners son was our guide. We rode out of Ushguli, past the Lamaria Monastery (St Mary’s) to the northeast, and followed the Enguri River, upstream.
The horse trail finishes right near the foot of the glacier. The ride took about three hours.
We had stream crossings, and a few narrow trails, but most of the time it was flat and open. There are few places where the area is rock-free through this pass. The horses do have shoes on. The horses were also good and our guide did a fine job. Not clear why he walked, instead of rode.
The meadows, wildflowers, waterfalls, mountains, creeks, river, and snow, made quite an enjoyable scene to get lost in.
I loved it! Daryl is such a good sport and I’m so happy he enjoys the horses, too. 

Fabulous!!

The angle of the camera phone is distorted, plus Daryl is in a low spot. I don’t often feel like a giant next to Daryl.
The Caucasus Mountains feature Europe’s highest peaks by a considerable margin.
There are 200 peaks over 13,123 feet above sea level, 30 over 14,763 feet and seven over 16,404 feet, including the granddaddy; Mt Elbrus, at 18,510.5 feet.
Mont Blanc, the highest in Western Europe at 15,771 feet is exceeded by 15 Caucasus peaks.

Almost back. There is the St Mary’s Church from this view.

A wedding was taking place at the church, on our way back by.

The saddles were padded very well. They were comfortable.

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Today was our last full day in the mountains, as tomorrow morning we drive 4.5 hours to make is as far back as Zugdidi. We have made a lot of memories here, over the last week. Memories we will cherish for many years to come.
In Zugdidi, we will spend a few nights and get some much needed laundry done. From there, we return to Tbilisi, where we began several weeks ago! We definitely see some more Georgian Baths in our future.

As the saying goes: “Time flies when you are having fun!”

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