“USA 🇺🇸 Florida ~Dry Tortugas National Park / Fort Jefferson and Float Plane Flight to Get There”

• December 1, 2023
• By Pen
• 0 Comment

Discovered by Ponce de Leon in 1513, the Dry Tortugas Islands were named after the large population of sea turtles living in the island’s surrounding waters. “Tortugas” means turtles in Spanish. The name “Dry” Tortugas was later given to the island to indicate to other mariners that the land mass lacked fresh water, which was an extremely important detail for seafarers to know.

Our main reason for coming down to the end of the Keys in Florida, was to visit Dry Tortuga National Park, and it did NOT disappoint! BUT, it was not the only reason. There is more to see and do in Key West.

In Key West, which is the end of the drivable Keys, there is the Ferry/Marina and/or Airport terminal, for the only two modes of public transportation, to get to this; Southernmost American National Park. One does not drive to Dry Tortugas, as it’s an island visit. I’ve wanted to go there for at least 30 years, so dreams really do come true.

We originally thought we would be going by Ferry; (there is only one that is allowed in this Park), but it was fully booked, through next year. Who knew? With the kind of weather we’ve been dealing with, over the last six months, (based on experience) it’s hard to spend that kind of money and not be able to pick a decent weather day. So, I missed that chance for us on the expensive, but lesser expensive option of the ferry, and ended up going by Sea Plane. That Float Plane option took three days of waiting, to get an answer; if there really was room for us on the flight, while we were in the Keys. I was relieved to finally get the email with a confirmation. This was a $900 r/t flight for the big guy and me; way more than we planned on having to spend, but oh well. The cost of returning to the Keys, at a later date, to do Dry Tortuga, would cost again for travel, so not a cheaper option.

After arriving at our Glamping spot in the Keys, winds kicked up, (of course they did), so I called Sea Plane Adventure, every day, up to our departure day, to find out if the wind gusts would be grounding flights. Luckily for us, (and others) the winds did not keep the plane grounded.

We do know the winds have impacted boating in the area, since we inquired about renting a boat for a half-day, to tootle around in, but it was too windy, and rental boats were grounded, till further notice.

“Rolling with the Punches” seems to be our motto, for the better part of this entire year.

We got underway in this awesome amphibious Sea Plane. This means it has wheels for taking off and landing on the ground, but in flight, the wheels fold in to storage, inside the float skis and this makes landing on a water, easy. While the plane did fine in the wind, the sea was quite choppy and murky, as a result of many days, running. On the day of our flight, it was the ONLY day in our seven-day visit to the Keys, that we had clouds. I was pretty bummed, but the good news is, the waters here are so amazing, that I could still get some pretty great pictures, as even low light made the water pop!

Regardless of the less than sunny day, it was a great trip to Dry Tortuga. Hey, it didn’t rain! This was an amazing National Park to see, and explore. I felt so lucky to have gotten to see it!

Before we loaded into the plane, where we had no seat assignments, our pilot announced to the entire group, of 10 passengers, the co-pilot seat was available for anybody that wanted to join him up front, and otherwise, sit where you please. There were no takers for the cockpit, so I asked if I might get to sit there. (10 passengers, plus the pilot and 12 seats, including the pilots seat, on this plane).

I got settled into my seat, and enjoyed watching the pilot and all the mechanics he used, to fly this 1956-era plane……More to this part of the story, at the end of this blog.

Joe the Pilot

As a passenger in the co-pilot seat, my best view was the door window to my right. The front windshield was very high up, as the instrument panel of gauges covered three quarters of the lower area. In other words, my window was no different from any other passenger window on the plane, though the look is a little deceiving in photos, as well as looking from the passenger body of the plane.

On our way back from the island, there were no takers for the co-pilot seat, so Daryl asked if he could join the pilot, up front.

Daryl is tall enough he could actually see over the instrument, panel better than most people. He saw either a dolphin or a shark. I took the seat behind Daryl, which was just behind the cockpit area. For the record, I always sit on the same side of any mode of transfer I take, on round-trip adventures; whether it’s a bus, plane, or train. This way, the view is different, both coming/going. I “assumed” everybody does the same. I honestly did not see where anybody else sat on the way over, (nor did it matter to me), other than I knew where Daryl sat, which was directly behind the pilot, behind the cockpit.

Dry Tortugas National Park and Fort Jefferson ⬇️

What a beautiful trip! The Sea Plane option, with its stunning views, only took 40 minutes, to fly to Dry Tortuga from the Key West Airport, vs the ferry, which takes 2.5 hours. (ferry option $300 pp) The views by the Sea Plane just couldn’t be beat, either!! Every passenger had a window seat. Our half-day option was plenty of time for us, to explore the island and the Fort. We got 2.5 hours on the island. It’s a big area to explore, so the full-day option might be a best option, if you want to add snorkeling to the adventure.

The water, which is normally pristine and clear, was not, on our day there, so we did not check out any gear. Everybody else on the flight did, but we did not see anybody snorkel.

We arrived on the island, just as the last ferry, brimming with people, was departing. Left on the island, were four tent campers, the 10 passengers from our plane, and there was another plane already at the island, but I don’t know how many people were on that. We pretty much had this gigantic island and Fort, all to ourselves, with only a handful of guests.

For the record: by visiting this remote island in Florida, we have both been to the Southernmost tip of the United States. Last June, by flying to Utquiagvic (Barrow), Alaska (where we saw two wild Polar Bears) we got to be in the Northernmost tip of the United States.

We decided to start our self-tour of the Fort; beginning at the entrance, going inside the Fort and finding the stairs, that would take us to some amazing views!

The area is known for its treacherous reefs, and in 1825 a lighthouse was built on Garden Key to warn ships and guide them toward safety. At the time shipwrecks were common, and with underwater wrecks dating back to the 1600s, the Dry Tortugas currently possess one of the richest concentrations of shipwrecks in North America. It is also because of these large reefs, surrounding the Tortugas that the U.S. was able to establish one of the most strategic harbors in U.S. history, and Fort Jefferson was born.

Construction of the Fort began in 1846, and although it was never officially finished, it remains a historic icon of the Dry Tortugas, and receives thousands of visitors, yearly.

The third level is really high up, so one needs to be careful when close to the edge.

There are several canons that remain at this old Fort. The date on this one, indicated 1865

We could see the plane we came in on, and eventually got to watch it take off; returning guests to Key West, from earlier in the day.

This area of the National Park Island has a lot of nesting going on; both birds and Turtles. This year there was a record breaking numbers of Turtle nests: Loggerheads and Green…over a thousand. One is only allowed on the beach side, not in the trees, when exploring. During active nesting season, I’m not sure what access is.

Dry Tortugas National Park encompasses the history and natural wonders that make this island, at the Southern tip of the United States a truly remarkable place. It is home to a multitude of unique birds, and has the only regular U.S. nesting site of sooty terns on Bush key, adjacent to Fort Jefferson. With vibrant coral reefs, nesting sea turtles, unique tropical fish and underwater wonders, visiting the Dry Tortugas is an unforgettable experience.

⬆️ The Garden Key Light, also known as the Tortuga Harbor Light, is located at Fort Jefferson, on Garden Key in the Dry Tortugas, Florida. The first lighthouse, started in 1824 and first lit in 1826, was a brick conical tower.

Back down the stairs we went, to walk around more of the inside of the Fort, and around the outside, on the mote. It would take us awhile of back and forth, mote-wise, though, since there are three sections of the mote wall that have broken apart and washed into the sea.

The waves were pretty rough and we got hit more than once, as we walked.  It was slippery in some areas, but we took our time.  It was very fun. It was quite special to walk on some of the original brick walkway, which remains.

No shells, rocks, flowers, plants, or driftwood can be removed from the Park. This is true of all National Parks.

Original bricks from when the mote was built

⬆️ The Loggerhead light, originally named the Dry Tortugas Light, was constructed in 1858 as a result of the numerous issues with the Garden Key Light. The light was taller, brighter, and equipped with a more modern optical lens than the Garden Key Light. It’s location on Loggerhead Key, the most dangerous key, would also aid vessels in navigating through the area.

The US Lighthouse Service maintained Loggerhead Light through World War II, when lighthouse duty was transferred to the US Coast Guard. The light was fully automated in 1982 and all Coast Guard left the island.

While the lighthouse was under construction, a contractor finished construction of a house and kitchen. The main house burned in 1945, but the kitchen still stands and is occupied by National Park Service volunteer caretakers. A “new” lighthouse keeper’s house to the north of the lighthouse was built for the keeper’s family in the 1920s.

Fort Jefferson National Monument was designated by President Franklin D. Roosevelt, under the Antiquities Act on January 4, 1935. (Comprising 47,125 acres) The monument was expanded in 1983 and re-designated as Dry Tortugas National Park, on October 26, 1992 by an act of Congress.

As one of the newest national parks, the powers that be, are committed to protecting the Dry Tortugas in perpetuity. This is no mean feat, for a variety of reasons. First, the park encompasses approximately 100 square miles, only 40 acres of which are above water. It is largely a marine sanctuary that serves as an ecological laboratory for studying, preserving, and enjoying a rich and diversified underwater world.

Patrolling the vast expanse of open water is a tall order, especially for only a handful of park rangers. The importance of doing so, however, is accentuated by the more than 200 sunken ships, dating back to the 1600s, at rest within the park’s boundary. They are of extraordinary historical and cultural significance. The National Park Service does its best to keep the locations of all but two of the wrecks, a secret, and metal detectors are prohibited within the park. But the bounty reaped from the Atocha, by notorious Key West treasure hunter Mel Fisher several years ago serves as a reminder of the ends to which people will go to dig up antiquities for personal profit.

The Park Service also does its best to keep commercial fishermen from illegally exploiting the fishery, but that, too, is easier said than done. Playing “tag” with commercial vessels that run inside and then outside of the park’s borders makes surveillance and apprehension difficult. To add insult to injury, commercial fishermen frequently take refuge in the park’s safe harbor, and Park Service law enforcement officers are often called upon to mediate disputes between them and other boaters, a burden park officials see as incidental to their primary mission.

In this regard, recreational use of Dry Tortugas National Park has presented few problems to date. The 70 miles of open water separating Key West from the islands have always constrained their recreational use. Despite great fishing, outstanding snorkeling, birding, and fascinating human history, the Dry Tortugas have simply been beyond the reach of most people.

Still, recreational use is accelerating. In 1984, visitation totaled 18,000. Today, visitation is approaching 90,000.

The Sea Plane Flights ⬇️

Departing Key West Airport

The depth of the ocean changed, over the course of the route. The shallower water showed lots of color. We were only flying 500 feet up, so this gave us all a chance to watch for marine life. Last week, several Manatees were even spotted, and they rarely come out this far into the open water. Nope. Still haven’t seen any Manatees!
Again, the winds caused the water to be choppy and murky. We couldn’t see much. 

We were told this island is for sale. (It’s outside the park boundary) It is abandoned at this point. How much? Somewhere around 15 million was a guess we were told, but not sure of exactly how much.

This is one, of two sunken vessels. This one was a decommissioned navy boat that was used for target practice, and intentionally sunk

First view of Dry Tortuga National Park and Fort Jefferson. WOWZA!!!

We arrived and unloaded. Each couple got a small cooler with ice and free water or sodas, on top of snorkeling gear, if one chose. I didn’t catch all the names of people in our group, but that’s “Karen” in the orange dress.

Time to Fly Back to the Key West Airport ⬇️

We got to watch our plane come back to get us, and I’m not going to lie. We didn’t have a lot of water with us, if our plane didn’t make it back, for whatever reason. The DRY was added to Tortuga name, because there is no drinking water on the island, which is out in the middle of an ocean: 70 miles from Key West, Florida, and around 109 miles from Havana, Cuba.

I leaned, during my research for info on Dry Tortuga, that this National Park was abruptly closed, just this last June, when 300 migrants, somehow made their way to her shores. I can’t imagine being on this remote island, when illegals showed up; en-mass. I doubt they all got very much further, since there are always Park Ranger(s) who do live on the Island, full time. I can only guess the migrants were coming from Cuba. I mostly think of the tourists who got their flights and ferries canceled in the busy summer, with a closed Park. That would have been quite disappointing.

⬆️ This was a boat that, while it was operating had a mishap, where the hull separated from the rest of the boat. It sunk, sometime in the 90’s, and it’s a bit of a surprise the mast is still standing. For the record, the pilot banked the plane, so both sides of passengers on the plane had visuals of the two dunk ships we saw on this route.

Coming back in to the Key West Airport for a landing.

At the end of Key West is the most amazing historic district. On this day, we only drove around it a little, before our flight time, and specifically hit up Duval Street, which is not to be missed. We would make another trip back, to JUST enjoy and explore the area. More specifically, we wanted to tour the home of Ernest Hemingway, which has been turned into a museum. Parking is a nightmare, as is the case in most historic district, so go early, as apposed to later in the day; even on a weekday.

END OF THE STORY……..

As we were all loaded and about to take off, to head back to the airport, from our fun time on the island, a passenger across the aisle was trying to get my attention. I took off my assigned headset, to listen to him. He suggested I sit on his side of the plane for the trip back. I asked him why I would want to do that? The guy behind him said; “so you can see different views on the way back.” I thought they were both joking. They were not. I explained, that if I sit on the same side of the plane, both coming to and going from the island, I would not get to see all the views offered, on this flight. It took one of the guys a minute, and then he said. “oh you are right. I’m the one mixed up,” and he laughed. I laughed….. I will point out that there was still a completely empty seat in the body of the plane, both coming and going on this flight.

So, by the time we landed, back at the Key West Airport, it was dark. We had such a delightful afternoon, and my head was already swimming with memories, but we were ready to call it a day, get back to The Whale, get in our suits and hit up the Hot Tub. We tipped the pilot, thanked him and began making our way to the hanger…BUT not before a woman on the flight, approached me, and with her strong British accent said; “I just want to tell you, how “INCREDIBLY rude you were, today.” I said “excuse me?” She went on to tell me, because of where I sat on the return flight, she did not get to see the mast on the sunken ship, sticking up……she carried on for a bit, and pretty soon, more people were staring.  It was a bit awkward, and I had no idea what she was even talking about. Then, she mentioned something about me getting to sit in the cockpit. Daryl was standing right next to me and he also got to sit in the cockpit, but this “Karen’s” venom, was only for me. My brain would not engage; and this was probably a good thing, because I could have given her an earful, but all I said was “Do you feel better, getting ALL THAT off your chest?” and “Perhaps you should have suggested we drawn straws on the seating.”…..to which, she finally shut.her.pie.hole and we walked away.

Anyway, on our walk back to short-term parking, to get back to Jonah, Daryl and I both started cracking up, over the same memory all that drama over the plane evoked, from when we visited Tajikistan. Daryl totally got it, when I mentioned; “Drawing Straws.”

…..On that trip, after a long travel day in a van, we arrived at the most charming and quaint farmhouse in the mountains, with housing, for an overnight and delicious meals. There were about 20 people in our tour group. 

Before we unloaded our bags, the tour guide had us gather around and told us there were “various accommodations to choose from.” Couples were to be housed in one area, and singles in another. For the couples, he pointed to the row of options; one being a cozy, tiny, European-looking stone cottage that did stand out, and others, near that, were also very nice, but not quite as charming and romantic looking. When it came time to pass out the keys for the cozy cottage, the guide asked if there were any takers. NOBODY made a peep, so I said; sure, if it’s available, we would love to stay there. The rest of the doling out of keys carried on, till every body was collecting their bags from the van.  We unpacked our things, got settled, and were getting ready to go to dinner, when there was a knock on our door. It was the guide. He was asking for everybody to gather again, before dinner. We joined the group. Apparently, there were some “unhappy travelers,” who felt like Daryl and I got “preferential treatment” with the cute stone cottage. So, somebody suggested we “draw straws to make it more fair” Okay….and not one to ever back down from a challenge, it was Game ON. This was entertaining, at the very least. We were really too hungry and tired to care. I mostly just didn’t feel like packing up our belongings, again. Seriously, there were no bad lodging options, here, and it was only for one night.

Not everybody in the group, ended up caring, either and others we had befriended; singles and couples were smirking over the ridiculousness of it all. Most bowed-out, some even looking a little sheepish, now that Daryl and I showed up to the “meeting.”

Out of everybody, it came down to three other couples, and us. Fair and Square, the guide held out the “straws.” As it would turn out, Daryl and I won the straw contest, and got to stay put in our cottage. We held our giggling till after we were back in the cottage. Come to find out, it had a private bath and wood-burning stove. We did not know this at the time, but perhaps others did?

So, if SPEAKING UP when a question is asked, when nobody else does, and understanding we could all sit where we wanted, to get the most of the views on this very expensive flight, because I understood the instructions, and knowing there was a empty seat each way, then I guess that makes me “rude”….”Incredibly Rude.”

“Dear Karen, Why did you not ask to sit in the cockpit? Also, where were you and what were you doing when the pilot banked the plane so everybody got to see the mast sticking out of the water? Furthermore; I’ve never been accused of being shy, either, and you can take that to the bank.”