“Armenia 🇦🇲 ~Khndzoresk Village, Churches and Cave Dwellings”

Disappointed, but not defeated, after not being able to teach the petroglyphs, we traveled from the Ughtaser Mountain area and made our way to the best preserved cave homes in Armenia. We arrived at a deserted parking area, and we all began our descent down; 400 steps. With knees like Daryl and I have, going down and coming up steep inclines is not easy. Once we reached the bottom, where a huge suspension bridge would take us across the deep canyon, we met an local elder who showed us the museum and spoke of the history.      (no English, but no worries). This elder, in fact, had lived in the village, before it was abandoned.


Old Khndzoresk is a medieval and early modern village, largely hewn into the soft rock. There are a number of artificial caves now used as stables. At the bottom of the gorge, is the Saint Hripsime Church of 1663. On a spur beyond, is a 17th century Anapat (hermitage), with the tomb of Mkhitar Sparapet, who was Davit Bek’s chief aide and successor in the war to drive out the infidel Muslims. Mkhitar was murdered in 1730 by the nervous Armenian villagers of Khndzoresk, who had vainly beseeched him to hole up in his own stronghold, rather than their village. The Ottoman Pasha, in Tabriz, to whom they presented his head, found this treachery distasteful, and decapitated the murderers. The site is green and memorable. There is a 17th century cave church of Saint Tadevos, near. All these sites can be reach by hiking.

We crossed the bridge and toured some cave homes. It all reminded us of Cappadocia in Turkey, but on a smaller scale. Dug into volcanic sandstone on the slopes of Khor Dzor (Deep Gorge), the Village of Old Khndzoresk was inhabited as far back as the 13th century. By the late 19th century, the town was the largest in eastern Armenia. But, after being devastated by the 1931 earthquake, it was abandoned (save for a brief stint during the Karabakh War when caves were used as shelter). Now Old Khndzoresk is a ghost town of caves and 17th-centurychurches.

Saint Hripsime Church of 1663
17th century Anapat (hermitage), with the tomb of Mkhitar Sparapet
A 525 foot Swinging Bridge, built By Hand allows easy access to the village cave homes and stables across the canyon

  

Daryl and I rested on the other side and soaked up the sun.

By the time we were done exploring the cave villages, Daryl and I both hit the wall at the same time. The last several days of go, go, go, caught up with us. We chose to not hike back up the mountain and instead got a ride from the elder who ran a taxi. We met our younger friends at the top, as they hiked back up, and didn’t break a sweat!

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    1. Really? I’m glad you finally made it. We started it 1.5 years ago. Not being technical, it has been so hard, but I’ve learned so much and faced my fears as they say!

      Just gave our blog a new look, abs working out some formatting issues. Almost done!

      Hope you are doing well and jerking busy!

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About Us

Hello and Welcome to our Travel Blog Website, We enjoy writing about our experiences and taking photos of our adventuring along the way. Our names are: Daryl and Pen, but Daryl calls me “Bunny.” We met, quite randomly, whilst both… Read More