“Panamá 🇵🇦 ~The Beautiful San Blas Islands of Panama”

• May 13, 2025
• By Pen
• 0 Comment

The San Blas Islands of Panama’s Archipelagos

This archipelago of over 350 islands is a hidden gem that’s just waiting to be explored. The islands are part of the Comarca de Kuna Yala, an independent indigenous territory, stretching from the Caribbean side of Panama to Colombia. 

While access to the islands can be challenging, the reward is well worth the effort.

The islands are part of the Comarca de Kuna Yala, an independent indigenous territory on the Caribbean side of Panama. It’s worth noting that the islands are often referred to as the “San Blas Islands,” due to the common usage of the old name in guidebooks and across the internet, while the locals refer to this area as “Kuna Yala,” or also as “Guna Yala.”

The Kuna people are the native inhabitants of the San Blas Islands and have lived there for centuries. They are known for their intrinsic textile craft called “Mola,” which features colorful and intricate designs that reflect their cultural heritage. Kuna Yala received political, social, and cultural independence from Panama, after a revolution in February 1925. Since then, the Kuna people have been able to maintain most of their cultural traditions and lifestyle, contributing to the creation of a strong and proud culture.  

The Kuna people and their culture are an integral part of the San Blas Islands’ history and identity. Understanding their traditions, values, and way of life, adds depth and meaning to any visit to the islands.

We traveled by vehicle, from Downtown Panamá City. The only road to San Blas connects the western part of the Comarca (Cartí area) with Panama City. It’s only accessible by 4WD car or small truck, and there is no public transport, making a tour or necessary. The drive took around 3-4 hours and this is the most convenient option for people visiting from Panama City. After reaching the end of the road, we continued to the islands by small boats, operated by various tribes who promote their tours. Your accommodation, or the operator/agency, through which you make your reservation, usually offer a package that includes transport in a 4WD and the boat transport to the islands, to begin the adventure!

The local government permits a number of selected drivers to bring tourists in 4WD to San Blas, or you can drive in your own car (necessary: 4WD) to the port of Cartí. It is important to note that Uber or taxis are not allowed to enter. Therefore, you will need to arrange for your own transportation to the port of Cartí or another designated entrance point. Once you arrive at the port, you will need to arrange a boat, to take you to your chosen island, on a tour.

While it is possible to organize your own trip to San Blas, it may be easier and more convenient to book a tour or package through a reputable tribal operator or agency. They will handle all the logistics of transportation, accommodation, and activities, and provide you with a hassle-free experience.

Visiting the San Blas Islands offers a unique experience that sets it apart from other destinations. The islands are not as well-known or easily accessible, but boast beautiful beaches and a fascinating indigenous culture. Unlike other tourist destinations, tourism on the San Blas Islands is fully managed by the locals, who welcome you with a warm smile.

The breathtaking scenery of beaches, small coconut islands, and colorful coral reefs, provide a perfect backdrop for a relaxing, yet rustic getaway. 

San Blas can be enjoyed many ways. You can easily spend the entire day lazily swinging in a hammock with a coconut or a cool drink in your hands, but the islands offer so much more. Each island offers you perfect powdery white sand and crystal-clear water, while most are close to some colorful reefs, where you can snorkel and explore tropical fish. With a tour, you can do some island-hopping to see other islands, as well, or visit a Kuna village.

Scuba diving or windsurfing are prohibited, but there is plenty of water activities to do: some islands offer stand-up paddling or kayaking (some even with a traditional dug-out canoe).

So, yes, this was the really big deal, that Tonya and I went for, and it was well worth the effort! We visited about eight Islands, and I even managed to get names of a few of them. We spent the night on two of those islands, where there are private huts, large group huts and whatever hut combination that is needed. A bath house is shared, with a sink, toilet and cold water rinse off.

I hesitated about the idea of this rustic trip, and maintaining my dietary restriction, (Carnivore diet) that I wasn’t willing to sacrifice, but I wasn’t sure how communicating this need would go over, either. Come to find out, another guests had gluten issues and another had a vegan only request. I processed forward with an email, to start. The response I got back indicated the tribal member understood the convo and typed, well. I felt confident I could maintain my carnivore meals. It’s pretty basic. I can only eat animal meats, cooked in animal fats, (no seed oil) and don’t eat anything plant-based….but soon the wheels came off and info was lost in translation, because all of sudden I’m hearing there is no butter. I finally just said, look, if you can provide three boiled eggs a day for each meal, that will be good enough. I wasn’t trying to be difficult, but this particular type of diet creates a digestive issue that can not be started and stopped and started again, without some, um…lets say, discomfort……all the while while being on a boat with no bathroom? NO.

My lunches and dinners were okay with plain chicken, cooked in butter. But, on my first morning with a breakfast, I got six boiled eggs and a half a stick of butter…….Needless to say, I did not chow down on that stick of butter, nor could I eat that many eggs. I pulled our guide aside and once again, tried to explain the food thing. The rest of the trip went fine and I got some fried eggs.

Before we spent any real time in the cities, this was our first adventure, which I barely made it in time for, when five planes cancelled, on my way TO Panama. So, late arrival and then we were up early, on day one, to pack up and catch a ride from our Downtown Hotel in Panama, to where we would spend the next three days and two nights, getting around by boat, and staying on two different islands, to spend the nights in rustic, rustic cabins.

There are day tours, one night stays and three night stays. There is even a tour that takes people to Columbia, from Panama, so something for everybody.

There are 365 islands in this Island chain; one island for each day of the year! All the islands in Panama are owned by indigenous people and they have complete control. Many tribes have created these rustic stays, and accept guests. Amongst the islands that allow guests, there are many islands that have complete villages with only Tribal members. Our guide had family one such island and we got permission to stop and walk a Kuna Village, since there was a big celebration going on for a local girl; celebrating her “coming of age.”

Otherwise, we would stop at sand bars and many other islands, during this three day excursion, to relax, have a meal, swim or snorkel. Service was very basic, and there was not much English spoken, or understood. Chicken or Fish with rice and beans, twice a day, and breakfast had some eggs with toast.

There were about ten people on our tour, in total; ages 20-s to 60’s, representing Switzerland, Australia, and the USA. It was quite nice and we ended up having great weather during the day; though humid, but with no mosquitoes! Needless to say, after our third day, we were more than happy to get back to our downtown Panama hotel, and take showers!

The Drive to San Blas, From Downtown Panama City

We did get to see a Sloth, enroute, through the jungle

We Made It!!! 

Franklins Island 

After of full day of travel, they got us to our first island stop where they showed us to our huts, fed us lunch, and we had plenty of time to enjoy the surroundings.

There was a generator that ran on these islands for some of the time, allowing a little lighting and to charge phones, if needed. I brought a small battery pack, all charged up that served my needs. I did not bring my computer, or my DSLR camera. I went basic, with just my iPhone, which was a good plan, since we were moving really fast to get to all the things we wanted to do, in a short period of time. Generator power isn’t that strong to charge with, especially with multiple people needed the same, at once.

The next morning, after breakfast, we were packed-up and loaded-up, to spend the entire day making many stops on islands, including the indigenous one, where the coming-of-age-celebration was going on.

There was one large hut where the gathering was, and we were allowed a sit, which surprised me. There were no pictures allowed in the hut. The men were given cigarettes, and they drank from a bowl, that contained some kind of wine. It was dark and smokey. For me, it was way too hot.  I left the celebration, (which we were told was a 6-day celebration, btw)  and enjoyed some fresh air, and made my way back at the boat. I waited there, till it was time to leave that island for our next island, where we would spend the night.

I got to thinking, in my many years of travel, just how many tribal experiences I (and Daryl) had, prior to this one.  The number is 14; with three different types of life celebrations, including living with six of those tribes; overnight in their villages, while in Papua New Guinea.

Uchutupu Dummatt 

Sting Ray 

Well, this was completely unexpected, but we stopped on our next island for lunch, on day two, only to discover they had like a Michelin Star restaurant! What???? I looked it up and there are no Michelin restaurants in San Blass, no matter what was said, but somebody was def a chef with skills!

Prior to arriving, the group was asked by our guide; the usual “Chicken or Fish?”…. which we ate twice a day for the entire time. The fish was a grilled whole (bony) fish with the heads and eyeballs attached, and the chicken was usually fried. Sides included rice and beans.

The guide neglected to tell us that at this particular food stop, the fish for that meal was a filet of Swordfish! Big fail! Ha! There was also Lobster at this restaurant, but again no heads up to purchase any!  Nothing even mentioned!! I would have paid extra for a lobster!!!! So yeah, def some communication issues, but one just needs to roll with any confusion that may arise, when participating in these kinds of adventures.

The Kuna Village Island

In the early 20th century, the Kuna faced resistance from the Panamanian government, which tried to regulate their territory and culture. This led to the Guns Revolution in 1925, where the Kuna fought for their autonomy and, with the support of the U.S., gained a semi-autonomous region, called the Kuna Yala. The Kuna have successfully maintained their traditions and customs, including their distinct dress and handicrafts, particularly the Molas.

Kuna molas’ are brightly colored, intricately patterned textiles, created by the Guna women of Panamá; particularly, those from San Blas. They are hand-sewn panels, often used as the front and back of traditional blouses, but are also sought after as art.

Molas are known for their vibrant colors, complex designs, and unique reverse appliqué technique, which involves cutting through layers of fabric to reveal contrasting colors.

I bought about six of these beautiful Mola pieces, and will eventually frame them!

 

Heading to our next island, where we would spend another night…. 

Robinson Island

After a full day, once again, our final overnight Island was pretty, too, and we enjoyed a beautiful sunset. A fire was built on the sand, near the water and that was nice.

The next morning, which was our final morning of the trip, I opted to stay on the island, while the group traveled by boat, not far, to visit, yet, another island. I enjoyed being the only guest on the island, where I could observe the tribal members doing their thing, when not taking care of us. I hung out in a hammock, trying to catch a breeze. Soon, I heard a horn blow, which I heard to be common amongst the islands as a form of communication; using a Conch shell. A canoe full of men, had the “catch of the day,” and were alerting the island members they needed to come to the shore and collect the fish to feed us with.

After lunch, on this final day, we packed up the boat and started making our way back to the dock we had come from. We knew we had a long road trip to get back to the city, from there, which included a food stop at a gas station; both coming and going.

I’m not gonna lie, I was more than ready, at this point, to be done with the rustic island adventure, and get back to the very nice hotel, so it was perfect timing.